I get the question often of what kind of dash cameras I'm running and where to get them, so I thought I'd devote a blog post about the subject. Here, I'm not talking about a storm chasing camera or a streaming camera. A dashcam is a dedicated car camera with the purpose of recording the road full-time. A "dashcam" (sometimes called car camera or driving camera) is a small self-contained unit that records onto a memory card, and mounts to the window with a suction cup in a fixed position.
I have been running dashcams of one sort or another continuously since 2007. My reasons are twofold: 1.) to capture interesting and compelling footage of incidents that happen on the road, and 2.) as ironclad proof of what happened in the event of an accident.
Dashcams are gaining in popularity, and in some parts of the world (like in Russia, for example) are in widespread use. As a result, there are a multitude of brands and models available right now, and new ones are coming out all the time. The problem is that there are some important features that many of the cameras lack, particularly cheaper ones. If you're new to the world of dashcams, it is difficult to know which models to avoid and which ones work best.
Expect to pay about $150 to $250 USD for a good HD dashcam with the essential features I'm listing below. Acceptable SD versions are generally $50 to $100 less.
For the record, this post is in no way solicited or paid.
Important dashcam features
These are essential features to have with any dashcam model. I would avoid models that are missing any of these.
Automatic loop recording: Loop recording means that the camera continuously records in an indefinite loop hands-free without stopping, constantly overwriting the oldest video file with the newest video file. It works just like a CCTV system - at any time, you have the last 30 minutes or more of driving recorded. The larger the memory card, the longer record you have. I use 32GB cards in all of my cameras, which gives me a recording loop of more than 7 hours, all in 1080p HD video. That means at any time, I have the last 7 hours of driving saved should I ever have to go back and pull something off of the memory card. The beauty of a loop recording camera is that you never have to touch it until it captures something you want to save. When an accident or some other event happens, you simply copy the files from the memory card onto your computer.
Seamless recording (no gaps between recorded files): Many of the cheaper dashcams are unable to seamlessly write the sequential video files to the memory card, resulting in a short gap in between every recorded file. For instance, a camera with this problem that is loop recording in 2-minute intervals will have a 2 or 3 second gap in between each file. That may not seem like much until something happens during that short gap that you wanted to record! The gap worsens as file interval time increases. That is, a camera with this problem doing 15 minute recording intervals might have 15 seconds or more of a gap in between files. That's a lot of time that something could happen and be missed entirely.
True HD resolution: Many of the cheaper models purporting to be HD are actually recording up-rezzed and cropped SD 4:3 widescreen video, a fact you don't realize until you look at the video on a large monitor. Some cameras also shoot in 720p as opposed to 1080p - not as big of a deal, but if you're going HD, why not get the better resolution? If you are simply concerned with having a dashcam as a 'black box' to record proof of driving incidents, you don't necessarily need high-definition video. You can save a good bit of money by getting a standard-definition model. High definition models are more expensive, but I feel that the increased resolution is worth the money.
Full-motion (30fps) video: Some of the older and/or cheaper cameras record at less than 30 frames per second, which results in jerky video. There's no reason to accept this when you can easily get full 1080p 30fps from most cameras.
Heat resistance: Two of the camera models I've used have had problems shutting off unexpectedly when they get too warm from direct sunlight. This problem is worst in the summer, as you'd expect. These cameras are supposed to be permanently installed in the window of a car, so they need to be able to withstand the inevitable heat issues.
Powered shutdown and file write: I haven't read about a dashcam that doesn't have this feature, but it's important. When the device loses power, it should have a short battery/capacitor charge to stay on long enough to save the last piece of video. If you have an accident and lose power, you want to make sure the camera saves the file!
Wide-angle lens: Dashcams come in a variety of lens types. Unfortunately, many don't specify exactly how wide each lens (in degrees) is. In the early years of dashcams, 70 degree and 120 degree lenses were common. Today, dashcam lenses - particularly HD models - virtually all come with wide-angle lenses that appear to be 120-140 degrees. Wider lenses capture a bigger field of view, but more distant subjects will be smaller in the frame. 70 degree lenses do a better job of capturing more distant subjects, but the reduced field of view could result in missing a lot of action. I personally feel that the wider lenses are better, particularly with HD resolution. The reason you want a dashcam is to capture things going on around you, not something far away.
Optional features that some models have that are nice - but not entirely necessary - are the following. Most cameras with these features are significantly more expensive, and they aren't necessary to accomplish what a dashcam needs to do (just record the road full time).
GPS logging: Cameras with this feature record your GPS position along with the video, which can be played back split-screen with a map.
Speed logging:: Most of the GPS models can also log your speed and overlay this onto the video.
G-force sensors: These show the g-forces associated with collisions or hard braking.
Write-protect file save button: This feature is supposed to allow you to hit a button and write-protect the last file recorded in the event you capture something you want to save, then just let the camera keep running. I personally don't need this, because if the camera captures something, I want to immediately copy the files to my computer for safeguarding. Also, having a write-protected file(s) on the card means I have to go back and manually un-write protect it later at some point.
Multi-camera systems: Some dashcams have built-in driver-facing cameras synced with the front view cam. Conventional multi-camera CCTV systems, like the ones you'd get for your home or business, are also available in 12 volt versions (external cameras with a central hard-drive DVR), but those are cost prohibitive and record at low resolutions (analog 320 lines). If you wanted four cameras, for example, it's cheaper to just buy four dashcams. You'd get the same camera coverage, and all in HD. The only real advantage of the CCTV systems is that their recording loop is very long (7 days or more), but again, if the cameras catch something, you're going to be downloading the files right away in most cases.
Using other cameras as dashcams
Cameras like GoPros, Contours and even smartphones can be mounted as dashcams, but the main limitation for this purpose is that most don't loop record (although the new GoPro Hero 3 does). This will require your intervention every time the memory card fills up. Furthermore, a true dashcam should be permanently mounted and hands-off, dedicated 100% of the time to its job of recording the road. That's the only way it will catch anything!
Dashcams I've used: current and previous
I am currently running three dashcams: a front-facing (Garmin Dash Cam 20 - 1080p, $179), rear-facing (Aiptek X1 - 1080p, $189) and driver-side facing (Pomcam - 480p, $80). Prior to September 2015, my front-facing camera was an Aiptek X3 (the successor to the X1). The X3 failed in August 2015 after about 2 years of use.
The Garmin, X3 and X1 units have all of the essential features I listed above. Aside from the failed X3, the Aipteks and Garmins are performing well. My side-facing camera is a Pomcam ($80 USD), which records in standard definition 640x480 (pictured at right).
I am not as pleased with the Pomcam, though the model I have is a very early one from their line purchased in 2010 (the company now carries newer models). My Pomcam model exhibits the gap in between files, and shuts off when it gets too warm in direct sunlight (an unavoidable problem when it's mounted in the window!). It is also likely a US branded version of a Chinese/Taiwanese model, as its construction, features and menus are identical to those you can buy direct from China. It does work, however, and has captured some things (see the dashcam videos page).
Previous dashcam setups:
2013 to 2015: Front-facing: Aiptek X3; rear-facing: Aiptek X1, side-facing: Pomcam. The X3 failed in 2015 after two years of use, and was replaced with the Garmin Dash Cam 20.
2011 to 2013: Front-facing: Aiptek X1; rear-facing: Pomcam. The Pomcam was moved to the side-facing view and the X1 to the rear-facing view in 2013 when I purchased the X3 as the new front camera.
2008 to 2011: Front-facing: Aiptek 720p flipcam; rear-facing (added in 2010): Pomcam. The flipcam was a pocket video camera, not designed to be a dashcam. I had to reformat the memory card when it filled up (every 4 hours), and the camera would glitch out on hot days.
2007 to 2008: Front-facing: analog CCD cam connected to a standard VHS VCR. The VCR on SLP would record for 6 hours, and required rewinding the tape after each 6-hour interval.
Mount the cameras high: The higher the camera is, the better view of the road it will have and the less it will obstruct your view out the window.
Cameras can be mounted upside down: For tricky space limitations, you might get better results mounting the camera upside down. The video can then easily be flipped in any editing software once you get it copied to your computer. Note the rear-facing camera in the photo above is mounted this way, due to the complexity of mounting it right-side-up from the ceiling.
Tripod mounts can be used: If a suction cup can't be used, any tripod mount will work. My rear window with defroster wires won't hold a suction cup, so I built my own mount with aluminum bars. Again, you can mount the camera upside down if you have to.
Powering on/off: Most dashcams are meant to be plugged into the car's cigarette lighter outlets that power off when the ignition is off. The cameras then start up by themselves once the car is started, and turn off when the keys are removed. If you are a storm chaser reading this, I would permanently connect the cameras to your 12-volt circuit that you use to power the rest of your stuff (inverter, battery chargers, streaming cams, etc). This frees up your cigarette lighter outlets from the clutter of a permanently installed device's wires. If your system is like mine and has a main power switch for the entire 12v circuit, you'll be able to leave the cameras running for times you're not with the vehicle (at a restaurant, gas station, etc).
Run the cameras full-time: Keep the camera rolling at all times! Incidents happen when you least expect them, and the only way you'll catch them is to have the camera rolling. The only time my dashcams aren't rolling is when I'm home. When I'm in my car, they are always running.
Use the biggest and fastest memory cards possible: Class 10 memory cards are a must. Slower cards can cause file errors, and they take forever to copy over to a computer. Most cameras come with 4GB cards that only give you a recording loop of less than an hour at 1080p resolution. That's really all you need if you just want to capture an accident, but if you'd like a longer record loop, get a bigger card. A 32GB card holds over 7 hours of 1080p h264 video. I feel that the longer recording loop you have, the better - it's nice to be able to go back and review something that happened hours ago.
If you catch something, save the video immediately: If you wait, the event may get overwritten at the end of the loop record cycle! You could also carry a couple of extra SD cards to swap out if the cameras catch something. Again, most cameras have a button that allows you to write-protect the current file, but if you do that all the time, eventually your card will be full of write-protected files that will shorten your recording loop.
Video codecs: Some of these cameras use unconventional codecs that many video editors/players won't recognize. My newer dashcams record h264 in an AVI wrapper, but Adobe Premiere will not read them natively. I've had the best success using VLC to convert files to .mov wrappers (keep video and audio track) in order to import them into Premiere.
Recommendations and Reviews
I am hesitant to recommend any dashcam I haven't personally used, so I'll just talk about the ones I have. I'll detail the models I've used and my experiences with each:
Garmin Dash Cam 20: I purchased this unit for $179 (it was on sale at Best Buy) in September 2015 to replace the failed Aiptex X3. It has GPS and impact sensors in addition to the normal 1080p loop recording. It also comes with a 1-year warranty. With dashcams up to this point being a mainly hit-and-miss field with primarily overseas sellers, I very much like being able to buy one from a reputable manufacturer at a major US retailer (with a warranty at that). That alone gives the Garmin a big edge in my mind. Here are my first impressions after a couple of weeks of using the 20:
PRO: Build quality is very good.
PRO: Powered shutdown allows for one, two or five minutes of recording after power is lost, a nice feature.
PRO: Video quality is a step up from the Aiptek X1/X3.
PRO/CON: The lens on the Garmin is a lot wider than my previous Aipteks. I'm undecided on whether this is good or bad. On one hand, it's nice to be able to capture more of what is happening in adjacent lanes. With the Garmin, a passing car is visible on the camera as soon as it passes the front pillars on either side of the windshield (from the driver's viewpoint). On the other hand, anything that is happening more than 100 feet or so ahead of the vehicle appears very small on the video. More distant events will be very hard to make out on such a wide view. Furthermore, the wider view means that there is less of the road and more of the sky in the view - remember, the bottom of the camera view is your vehicle's hood. You don't want to waste valuable video by recording a bigger chunk of your hood, so in my car, the extra vertical viewing angle goes to the sky. Since I'm a storm chaser, that's useful - but it might not be for the average driver.
CON: The GPS/speed/time stamp overlay cannot be turned off on the recorded video. This is not too much of an issue with the front camera, as the stamp is at the bottom of the screen, which in my car is overtop of the dark windshield wiper. This however will be a problem if I use a Garmin for the rear camera, which in my car must be mounted upside-down.
CON:There is a very loud half-second long audio artifact in the middle of each video file. The artifact clips the volume at the upper end. This is not a huge issue unless something is captured on video at that exact moment.
CON:The MiniUSB power cable is proprietary. The camera will not operate with any other standard MiniUSB power adapter. This meant I could not use the previously-installed power cord from the Aipteks, even though it was also MiniUSB - I had to go through the annoying task of running a power cable all over again.
Aiptek X1 Car Camera: This 1080p camera served as my front dashcam from 2011 to 2013. I moved it to the rear after purchasing the Aiptek X3 (next in this list). The image quality of the X1 is very good for the money, and it has been a generally reliable camera, surviving extreme hot and cold, shocks, and even a window blowout during the El Reno, Oklahoma tornado (in which it was blasted with glass/debris and caked with mud). With a 32GB SD card, the X1 loop-records roughly 7 hours of video in full 1080p with no gaps in between files.
I had no problems with the X1 until May of this year, when the powered shutdown function stopped working. This is the function that saves the current video file when the camera loses power or is turned off (as it would likely do during an accident). Now, when I shut off the camera, it immediately turns off, corrupting the current video file that is sometimes not recoverable. The files I have been able to recover during tests have been missing at least the last 30 seconds. For this reason, I consider the camera 'down', in the sense that its view is useless if I'm involved in an accident where the car's battery connection is jarred loose (or the camera itself is knocked from its mount and becomes unplugged).
Aiptek X3 Car Camera: The X3 is virtually identical to the X1 in terms of operation and video quality. The X3 adds an impact sensor, which I never found the need to have. My X3 served as my car's front-facing camera from 2013 until August 2015. It too developed the powered shutdown failure in July of 2015, just like the X1 did. In mid-August, the camera failed completely. It would not power on, neither when connected to the car power or to a computer via USB. I took it apart to see if I could locate a loose wire or connection, but didn't find anything I could hope to service myself. So, the Aiptek X3 is dead after 2 years of service.
Pomcam: As mentioned above, my Pomcam is a very early model from the company that loop-records in standard-definition 640x480. It served as my rear-facing camera until 2013, when I moved it to face out of the driver's side. While inferior in resolution and suffering from in-between-file gaps, it has outlived both the Aiptek HD cameras in terms of maintaining all of its functionality (now running for over 5 years).
The Aipteks earned very high marks from me until they both developed the powered shutdown problem. How bad this that, though? I do not know what the typical lifespan of a dashcam should be. After all, they do run continuously and must survive constant vibration, direct sunlight as well as temperature and humidity extremes. The X1 performed flawlessly for over 4 years (and still runs, albeit without powered shutdown), so I guess that's not too bad, all things considered (especially after surviving a tornado strike). I would have hoped for more than 2 years from the X3, however.
I am wanting to replace the X1 (rear camera) soon due to its powered shutdown problem. If the new Garmin 20 performs well as the front camera, I may get another to serve as the rear camera.
For reviews on other units, the best online resources I've found are the Dashcam Talk website and the Techmoan Youtube channel, both of which have hands-on reviews of many dashcam models. I would highly recommend to first look up their reviews of whatever camera you're considering. There are also many user-supplied videos on Youtube from a good number of dashcam models, so you can view actual picture quality in both day and night use.
Where to buy a dashcam
Since I first wrote this article, it has become much easier to find dashcams for sale in the USA. Many truck stops now have dashcams in stock, and some major electronics retailers are beginning to carry them (mostly online though, not so much in stores). I was able to get the Garmin 20 from a local Best Buy.
The post would not be complete without this link: the collection of videos that my dashcams have captured since 2007, which include several accidents and close calls. The most prominent of all of the videos is the El Reno tornado captured on all three cameras (the front, rear and side camera video links are on the chase log page).
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The following comments were posted before this site switched to a new comment system on August 27, 2016:
Thanks Dan. An excellent tutorial on Dashcams. - Posted by JM from BC, Canada
Thank you very much for the post. I was looking for a dashcam and your review is very helpful. Usually, most of reviews talking about the specs and don't mention about heating issue, but it's very important to me here in Arizona. I think now I can pick one with more confidence. Thanks! - Posted by Luka from Arizona
This is very helpful - thank you. I need to find out how to permanently mount my camera for racing. I'm not allowed to use the suction mount as it could become a missile in an accident. - Posted by Louise from Wollongong
Very helpful. Thanks. I don't know what recording happens if we disable the loop recording intervals. Garmin GW-1 in my case - Posted by Randy Henry from Titusville FL
This was extremely helpful in helping me understand the features of my new dashcam. But the one I got has all of the features you listed and it was $40 at walmart. I have to admit, I hadn't thought about the heat and that might be an issue with it. - Posted by Greg from Florida
"These cameras record video files in 2, 5, 10 or 15 minute intervals" can you please explain this? - Posted by Ket from India
"Loop recording off / 30s / 1min / 2 min" Blaupunkt DVR 2.0 has this setting. What setting should I set? - Posted by Ket from India
thanks for your useful tips I'll be using some of them, I'm new to the world of dash cams and I am unfamiliar with some of the features and there purposes the manual I got does not explain there uses only how to adjust the setting can you please enlighten me on them and any suggestion that you might recommend e.g.. time laps settings, meter mode, loop record setting thanks for any help offered in this matter - Posted by john from australian
excellent tutorial - Posted by Denis from Calgary,AB canada
Thanks for the info! - Posted by Constantin from Canterbury, UK
I have a rear view mirror dash cam left it in the car and the glue holding the mirror on gave way and it fell apart you cannot leave it in a hot car - Posted by Ray RT from Baltimore Md
Hey there, is there a dash cam that is capable of streaming live video to say a home office, or smart phone ? - Posted by Dan from Odessa, Tx.
my husbands dash cam is perfect except for one thing,its recording upside down.while i know its not a problem because its the right way on the computer but its annoying any anwsers plz - Posted by margaret long from shropshire
Great write up for someone such as me that is looking to buy their first dash Cam. Very useful so thanks - Posted by Terry Johnson from Hampshire, UK
Thanks for the conversion tip, looked everywere for it. Nive one. - Posted by David from Helsinki Finland
thankyou the info was very helpfull - Posted by john from almeria spain
great article. Funny that you had the same thougt as me about the IDEAL DASHCAM. I have a single C600 now which is great. But I want to keep the captures on a big hard disk. Just like I have at home with my Foscam which stores all on a Synology NAS. At home I can store 2 month continuous HD on a 2TB disk. There's 8TB disks now so that would be perfect in a car with multiple cams. I am thinking of using a Xiaomi Yi Action Camera. Because that has a video output. IF I can connect that to a tablet (lets say with Windows) and add the 8TB disk. Then I am ready to go. Only thing is would need a separate battery for that. Plus need to find out how to connect multiple cams to the tablet since there not many USB ports on tablets. But perhaps a USB splitter wil do the trick? What do you think about that?'
The only thing that is missing then is detection and capture ot the outside of the car. But that will end up in a google like camera on the car I suppose :-) bye Wil - Posted by Wil from Netherlands
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