Dashcams: tips, reviews and videos from the road

At right: three different dashcam models.

In the US, dashcams have been traditionally associated with older analog VCR-based systems used in police vehicles. More recently, the modern digital dashcam has been a phenomenon on the dangerous and insurance-fraud-rife highways of Russia, where nearly every driver owns at least one. But they're beginning to catch on worldwide. Even here in the US, an explosion in the number of dashcams in use has taken place over the past couple of years. As prices come down and more capable models are released, I expect that one day dashcams will be commonplace on the roads in the USA.

The typical view recorded by a dashcam.

I'm a storm chaser that logs many thousands of miles a year, so I have been running dashcams of one sort or another continuously since 2007. My reasons for employing dashcams are twofold: 1.) to capture interesting and compelling footage of events that happen on the road and in the sky, and 2.) as ironclad proof of what happened in the event of an accident or other incident. I started out in 2007 with a single-camera police car-style analog VCR system. Now, I have four: one modern digital dashcam pointing out each direction (front, rear, driver's and passenger sides). Just about anything that happens to my car or anywhere near my car will be captured on camera.

My dashcam footage has been helpful. For example, I was recently able to directly refute negative news coverage alleging that storm chasers were constantly causing problems clogging Kansas highways. You can't argue with video - it is a powerful witness that can be your advocate in a court of law and the court of public opinion.

Back in 2013, this section of my site started out as a blog post on my experiences in shopping for/buying, installing and using dashcams. It has turned out to be one of my site's more high-traffic pages, so in October of 2015, I gave it this overhaul to better organize and expand on the various sections.

Avoid any dashcam model that does not have ALL of the following functions:

• Automatic loop recording: "Loop recording" means that the camera continuously records in an indefinite loop hands-free without stopping, constantly overwriting the oldest video file with the newest video file. It works just like a CCTV system - at any time, you have an interval of time, up to the present, of your driving recorded. The loop recording function of a dashcam should automatically start/stop - beginning when you start your car and stopping when you turn of the ignition. A dashcam is supposed to be a "set it and forget it" device that you never have to think about until an accident or other incident is captured that you want to save.
• Seamless recording (no gaps between recorded files): Many of the cheaper dashcams available in the early 2010's were unable to seamlessly write the sequential video files to the memory card, resulting in a short gap in between every recorded file. For instance, a camera with this problem that is loop recording in 2-minute intervals would have a 2 or 3 second gap in between each file. That may not seem like much until something happens during that short gap that you wanted to record! On cameras with this problem, the gap worsens as file interval time increases. That is, a camera with this problem doing 15 minute recording intervals might have 15 seconds or more of a gap in between files. That's a lot of time that something could happen and be missed entirely. Again, while most manufacturers have corrected this issue with most of the new models available today, you still should ensure that your dashcam records with no gaps.
• True 1080 HD resolution: 1080 high-definition video is the de-facto standard for dashcams, and even higher resolutions are beginning to enter the scene. I would avoid anything recording in lower resolution. There's no real advantage, cost-wise or performance-wise, to settle for even 720p these days. Back in the early 2010's, there were many dashcam models fraudulently purporting to be HD, but actually were recording up-rezzed and cropped SD 4:3 widescreen video. This was a problem only noticed when the video was viewed on a large monitor. Again, you really don't have to worry much about this with most new dashcams available today, but it is worth double-checking.
• Full-motion (30fps) video: Some older and/or cheaper cameras record at less than 30 frames per second, which results in jerky video. Again, there's absolutely no reason to accept this when you can easily get full 1080p 30fps from virtually all new dashcam models on the market today.
• Heat resistance: Two of my older dashcams had problems shutting off unexpectedly when they got too warm from being in direct sunlight in a hot car. This problem was worse in the summer, as you'd expect. A dashcam is supposed to be permanently installed in the window of a car, so it must be able to withstand that type of environment. There are reports that even a few of the newer models on the market today aren't up to the task when it comes to high-temperature performance, so do your homework before you buy! As a general rule, dashcams that use a capacitor for power-down instead of a battery will fare better in high temperatures.
• Powered shutdown and file write: I haven't read about a dashcam that doesn't have this feature, but it's important. When the device loses power, it should have a short battery/capacitor charge to stay on long enough to save the last piece of video. If you have an accident and lose power, you want to make sure the camera saves the file!
• Wide-angle lens: Dashcams are available in a variety of lens types. Unfortunately, many don't specify exactly how wide each lens (in degrees) is. In the early years of dashcams, 70 degree and 120 degree lenses were common. Today, dashcam lenses - particularly HD models - are virtually all wide-angle that appear to be 120-140 degrees. Wider lenses capture a bigger field of view, but more distant subjects will be smaller in the frame. 70 degree lenses do a better job of capturing more distant subjects, but the reduced field of view could result in missing a lot of action. I personally feel that the wider lenses are better, particularly with HD resolution. The reason you want a dashcam is to capture things going on around you, not something far away.

• GPS logging: Cameras with this feature record your GPS position along with the video, which can be played back split-screen with a map using special software supplied.
• Speed logging:: Most of the GPS models can also log your speed and overlay this onto the video.
• G-force sensors: These show the g-forces associated with collisions or hard braking.
• Write-protect file save button: This feature is supposed to allow you to hit a button and write-protect the last file recorded in the event you capture something you want to save, then just let the camera keep running. I personally don't need this, because if the camera captures something, I want to immediately copy the files to my computer for safeguarding. Also, having a write-protected file(s) on the card means I have to go back and manually un-write protect it later at some point.

• Standard tripod mount: Dashcams with the standard 1/4" tripod nut/bolt (like the one pictured at right) give you a lot of flexibility in mounting, allowing you to use any of a wide variety of film/camera and custom mounts from countless sources. Many dashcams have proprietary mounts that can only be replaced with the same type. For instance, if the suction cup on a proprietary mount goes bad, you must go and buy the same mount as a replacement.
• Parking mode: This is a mode that can be manually activated if the dashcam is permanently hardwired to the vehicle's power instead of an ignition-controlled cigarette lighter outlet. Parking mode turns the dashcam into a motion-activated CCTV camera, allowing it to conserve the vehicle's battery power while capturing events when the vehicle is unoccupied.
• WIFI: These models allow the camera to be controlled and video viewed via a smartphone app, similar to a GoPro's wifi function.

• Red light/speed camera alerts: These dashcams compare a database of known speed cameras and red light cameras with your GPS position to alert you when you are approaching such a hazard.
• Collision warning: Models with this feature alert you when your closing speed on an approaching object/vehicle is hazardous.

• Mount the cameras high: The higher the camera is, the better view of the road it will have.
• Make sure the camera is within the swath of your windshield wipers : You want your camera to be able to see the view ahead of you during rain, ice, frost or snow.
• Cameras can be mounted upside down: There are cases where it may be easier to mount the camera upside-down. The video can then easily be flipped in any editing software once you get it copied to your computer. My rear-facing camera (pictured at right) is mounted this way since a suction cup will not hold due the rear window's defroster wires. If you mount a camera upside down, consider turning off the on-screen timestamp if the options menu gives you that choice.
• Tripod mounts: If your camera came with a standard tripod mount and a suction cup can't be used, any tripod mount will work. My rear window with defroster wires won't hold a suction cup, so I built my own mount with aluminum bars. Again, you can mount the camera upside down if you have to.
• Powering on/off: Most dashcams are meant to be plugged into the car's cigarette lighter outlets that power off when the ignition is off. The cameras then start up by themselves once the car is started, and turn off when the keys are removed. If you are a storm chaser reading this, I would permanently connect the cameras to your 12-volt circuit that you use to power the rest of your stuff (inverter, battery chargers, streaming cams, etc). This frees up your cigarette lighter outlets from the clutter of a permanently installed device's wires. If your system is like mine and has a main power switch for the entire 12v circuit, you'll be able to leave the cameras running for times you're not with the vehicle (at a restaurant, gas station, etc).
• Run the cameras full-time: Keep the camera rolling at all times! Incidents happen when you least expect them, and the only way you'll catch them is to have the camera rolling. The only time my dashcams aren't rolling is when I'm home. When I'm in my car, they are always running.
• Use the biggest and fastest memory cards possible: Class 10 memory cards are a must. Slower cards can cause file errors, and they take forever to copy over to a computer. Most cameras come with 4GB cards that only give you a recording loop of less than an hour at 1080p resolution. That's really all you need if you just want to capture an accident, but if you'd like a longer record loop, get a bigger card. A 32GB card holds between 4 and 7 hours of 1080p h264 video (depending on the recording bitrate). I feel that the longer recording loop you have, the better - it's nice to be able to go back and review something that happened hours ago.
• If you catch something, save the video immediately: If you wait, the event may get overwritten at the end of the loop record cycle! You could also carry a couple of extra SD cards to swap out if the cameras catch something. Again, most cameras have a button that allows you to write-protect the current file, but if you do that all the time, eventually your card will be full of write-protected files that will shorten your recording loop.
• Disable the event detection: The event detection function will write-protect the current video segment if something trips the g-force sensors. This is supposed to safeguard the video file that captures an accident or other possibly damaging event. This seems like a good idea at first, but in practice, works against you. The problem is that most event detection functions are too sensitive (even on their lowest settings), and things like closing a car door or hitting a pothole will result in it triggering. With each new write-protected file, your memory card's available space will get smaller, and the dashcam's recording loop will shorten. Eventually, the card will fill up with these write-protected files, and the camera will stop recording! At that point, you'll need to re-format the memory card.

  In practice, event detection is not necessary. Most dashcam users, me included, will immediately stop and copy the video file (or swap out the memory card) for safeguarding if something worthy is captured. If you get into an accident yourself, you normally wouldn't want to just let the camera keep recording until the crash was overwritten.

• Video codecs: Some of these cameras use unconventional codecs that many video editors/players won't recognize. My Aiptek and Garmin dashcams record h264 in an AVI wrapper, but Adobe Premiere will not read the video track natively (only the audio track comes in). I've had the best success using VLC to re-encapsulate files to .mp4 wrappers (keep video and audio track) in order to import them into Premiere.

  Here is the process I use to convert these problematic dashcam files:

  1. With the VLC player open, go to File > Convert/Save
  2. The convert dialog box will appear. Click the Add button and browse for the file you want to convert.
  3. Click the Convert/Save button at the bottom of the window.
  4. Another dialog will appear. In the Profile drop down box, make sure Video - H.264 + MP3 (MP4) is selected.
     
  5. Click the tool icon just to the right of Video - H.264 + MP3 (MP4) to open the "Profile edition" dialog.
  6. In "Profile edition" under the "Ecapsulation" tab, make sure MP4/MOV is selected.
  7. Switch to the "Video Codec" tab and make sure "Keep original video track" is selected.
  8. Switch to the "Audio Codec" tab and make sure "Keep original audio track" is selected.
  9. Click "Save"
  10. Click "Browse" and type the name of the converted file you want to create. Make sure it has the .mp4 extension.
  11. Click "Start".
  If you did things correctly, the video file will simply be re-encapsulated into the MP4 wrapper after only a few seconds. The process should be done quickly since VLC is not re-encoding the actual video/audio track (which would take much longer).

  Depending on the source file, the converted file may import into Premiere with both the video and audio track together. Occasionally, however, only the video track will come in. In that case, you'll just need to bring in the original file (audio track only) and sync the audio track from the original file with the video track from the converted file. It's a convoluted and confusing process, but at least it works.

These are the models I've personally reviewed:

• Garmin Dash Cam 20
• Windshield Witness
• Street Guardian SG9665GC
• Aiptek X1 Car Camera**
• Aiptek X3 Car Camera**
• Pomcam (2011 version)**
• GoPro HERO 3+

Here are a couple of my thoughts on storm chasing-related applications for dashcams:

• Dashcam as a streaming cam: Most dashcams are not designed to be a webcam/streaming camera, but many of them have HDMI or analog TV/RCA outputs that you can use for streaming if you have the right capture hardware on your laptop. Again, a dashcam is normally supposed to be a full-time fixed-view camera (wide angle, no zoom capability), so for most chasers a dedicated conventional video camera may still be the better choice for streaming. I consider dashcams to be supplemental "B cameras" and not a primary way to capture "A-roll" video.

  I don't stream video of my storm chases, so I've never tried using one of my dashcams for that purpose.

• Dashcam or GoPro? Many chasers employ GoPros as their supplemental "B cameras" to capture full-chase videos. A dashcam essentially serves the same purpose - but as a permanent fixture, it simply makes capturing full-chase video a hands-off task in the sense that there is no setup/takedown or "start recording" task to attend to. A dashcam is always doing its thing, so at the end of the chase, the full video from each one is there for archiving if you so desire. GoPros generally have better video quality than a dashcam, but again, aren't as "hands-off".

  After personally trying out my GoPro as a dashcam, I've concluded it is not well suited for the purpose. I go into more detail about this on the reviews page.

  Keep in mind that a "real" dashcam will also be there for you for your daily driving (it was built for that to begin with), not just for your storm chases. You wouldn't normally mount your GoPro for your daily commute to work or trips to the grocery store. A dashcam will be faithfully recording every second of your driving both on chases and in daily life, with no intervention required until you capture something worth saving.

• Memory cards: You will want to use at least a 32GB Class 10 card in each dashcam you employ. That gives you roughly 5-7 hours of 1080p footage (depending on your camera's bitrate), enough time to capture most storm chases from start to finish. Most cameras support 64GB cards, which I am now using - giving me an over 9-hour long recording loop.
• Powering: I hardwire all of my dashcams to my car's primary 12v storm chasing equipment circuit (the one that powers the laptop, chargers, etc). This circuit is controlled by a manual power switch, and does not turn off when the ignition is off. You might want to consider doing this to allow the cameras to continue rolling even when the vehicle is turned off. I do this so I can leave the dashcams on during fuel/restaurant stops and pre-storm activities (waiting for initiation, etc).

As I mentioned a couple of other times on this page, you can save a considerable amount of money by ordering an equivalent unit direct from China or Taiwan (many are these are selling their product via eBay). However, you take the risk of having little recourse in the event of a defective unit or other problems. Reports of counterfeits and high-failure-rate units are also not uncommon with overseas sellers, so buyer beware! My personal recommendation is to buy domestic for a unit that comes with a warranty. As with most anything else, you get what you pay for.

• Vantrue: This Chinese manufacturer has been implicated in intellectual property theft, manipulation of online reviews/ratings systems and non-existent customer service.